keck parking des moines 758-459-7000, 800-223-1109 or 800-600-2688, fax 758-459-7700 www.ansechastanet.com 49 rooms $$$$ If

The next fishing village to the south, Laborie, is a giant step back to the past. Walk around the waterfront to see the colorful boats and chat with the friendly fishermen. Then, buy some fresh bread and drinks and hike (or drive the rocky, potholed road) up Morne Le Blanc for a picnic. You ll have majestic views of Vieux Fort and the island s southern plains from the shaded rest area at the summit.

758-459-7000, 800-223-1109 or 800-600-2688, fax 758-459-7700 www.ansechastanet.com 49 rooms $$$$ If you like posh and polish, skip this fabulous-but-earthy resort that caters to divers, nature lovers, and reckless romantics. Your first clue to the drama of Anse Chastanet is the brain-bouncing, rut-ravaged dirt road that leads to the magnificent marine reserve keck parking des moines off the beach at Anse Chastanet. If you survive the ride, you re rewarded with paradise.